I made some Fehr Trade Duathlon leggings and I really like them. Kapow!
The side-panel-pocket is a nifty bit of engineering that reeled me in and you can play around with it using different prints or colours. It took 3 [wearable] muslins to nail the fit to my liking, which is fine as it was a worthwhile exercise [pun intended]. So here’s my mini adventure [in which I only learn my lesson in pair number 3].
Pair number 1:
I did the full capri length and usually go with a straight size on any first attempt to get a gauge of the cut of the pattern, but for some reason I messed about with it straight away. I graded from a small at the waist to a large on the hip and leg, also increased out the back rise length on the inner thigh. I thought I had supplex but I’m pretty sure it’s milliskin matte.
The results: A general loose feeling. The shaping for the knees hit much lower on my legs [mostly because I have stumps for legs]; front rise had excess fabric; too baggy around the outer thighs] fabric pooling under the buttocks; straining on the lower part of my cheeks; centre back waistline pulling down by a couple of inches. I have a full droopy bottom in comparison to my front rise.
It droops quite significantly. You could lose pencils under those cheeks.
The general loose feeling wasn’t too surprising as the fabric tested with more stretch than the pattern was developed for – I know better but I never take heed. To make them more wearable post muslin, I evened out the waistline, ran them through my serger and lopped off a good 1.5cm’s off the inseam, followed by redoing the crotch line, scooping at my bottom for good measure, which is what you can see in the photos above. Job done. Good enough.
Pair number 2:
I took it down a size to a medium; moved the knee line up by a few inches; added height to both the front and back rise so that they would finish up just below my natural waist as pair #1 sat unevenly on me. For the crotch shape I pulled out a pair of RTW leggings that fit [reasonable] well and compared the shape and messed about with the front, scooping the back crotch to accommodate said buttock droop.
I will admit I was over zealous with the measurements in my changes for #2. I remember feeling rather gung-ho about it all by that point. Out came my kitten print fabric [they were practically neglected by this point and I'm sure the ASPCA we're about to knock my door down because of it] and went to work.
Pair #2 turned out good, but I knew it could be better. I annotated the pattern with further changes, stood back and saw I had frankensteined it beyond recognition. I do like to go all around the houses with some things. So I put it away.
At this point I had done the first few of my Zombies, Run! 5K sessions in the red pair so I already knew the pattern was worth revisiting. Just. One. More. Time. The side pocket feature meant I no longer get my arms tangled in my earphone cables, or get chub rub from wearing an armband! [sad face for the chub rub].
Pair number 3:
A few days ago I picked up my mess of a pattern whilst wearing the kittens and drank some tea. The logic I should have stuck to from the start: the fuller the persons’ bottom the more the back leg pattern needs to slant towards the out-seam to accommodate the body shape the fabric has to cover, rather than just increasing the pattern upwards in a vertical fashion. So I kept the additional length on the crotch rise but took it back to near its original point on the side seam and smoothed it out. Cut down to a size small all over to accommodate the stretchier fabric, and calmed the voice of reason wagging its index finger at me.
Whatever finger wagger. Check theez out.
Making this last pair I still messed about with the pattern, but hear me out! Whilst wearing #1 I noticed is that the width of the pocket is perfect for my phone, but I would get a little nervous about it just slightly poking out of the top of the slot if I was too energetic. Enter the idea of a small overlap!
Whilst cutting out #3 I added an extra 3/4″ to the length of the upper side panel with the idea of folding it back over the opening of the slot pocket. Then I got all silly and decided to use some power-net I have for just the pocket area so my skin can breathe more and not get my phone damp.
The story of the sports bra is for another time.